Friday, March 26, 2010

Staying at El Descanso

The cabins at El Descanso are made in the traditional style, with thatched roofs. A reforested area beside the cabins creates cool, fresh air that is very relaxing. When we got there, the women of Térraba were making rice tamales, wrapping them in leaves, and putting them to boil on an open fire behind the spacious, open air dining room.
Our guide, Asdrubal Rivas, took us to the village of Boruca, about 18 kilometers (half an hour) away, where we could see how the native brown cotton is spun and dyed with natural pigments. Boruca is also known for their masks of "diablitos", scary spirits which are part of their annual dance, held at the end of December. The Térraba masks feature animals more than spirits.
When we got back to el Descanso, the tamales were ready. What a treat! After that, a gentle swing in one of the hammocks was just the right thing to do.
El Descanso is about 4 kilometers west of the Interamerican highway. The turnoff to the village of Térraba is about 5 minutes by car south of the town of Buenos Aires. Go thorugh the village and turn left at the soccer field. Follow signs to El Descanso. At El Descanso you can learn about how chocolate is processed, then visit the weavers at Boruca, then go to BriBri Pa Kaneblo, about 35 minutes away, to learn more about traditional indigenous life and culture.
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