I came across a review of The New Key to Costa Rica at amazon, by a reader named M Seeley. He starts out saying "Be forewarned: this author - a seriously left-wing Socialist Greenie treehugger - has an agenda." and goes on to say:
"If you want to go to Central America and volunteer to dig ditches for the poor, this book is right up your alley. However, if you're looking to go on vacation and relax or see the country instead of seeking some kind of redemption, well you've got your nerve! (LOL). And the author has the gall (in this newest version) to eliminate EVERY hotel (green or not) in the ENTIRE province of Guanacaste because the infrastructure doesn't satisfy her eco requirements. Wow. I guess we won't be helping any poor folks in that area. So... if you looking for info on Flamingo Beach, Playa Hermosa, Coco, or Tamarindo, you're out of luck there." He further states "The author does know Costa Rica well, but It's too bad she couldn't be more objective. Yes, I'm environmentally minded and surely do want to go to eco places, but pretending other places don't exist is just silly."
M Seeley is misinformed. I have good reasons for leaving out the beaches of northern Guanacaste. Here is my reply:
Dear M Seeley,
I'd like to respond to several points in your review of my book, The New Key to Costa Rica, 19th edition.
First of all, Costa Rica's ruling party, Liberación Nacional, is a social democratic party. Why was Costa Rica not at war during the 70's and 80's like the rest of Central America? Because Liberación Nacional nationalized the banks, the telecommunications and electricity systems, insurance, and health care in 1949-50, all as a way of benefiting the population. Thus there were less poverty, better education, and better safety nets in Costa Rica, and a rising middle class. The socialized institutions have now become overly bureaucratic, but they served during the 50's, 60's and 70's to create prosperity and well-being for the Costa Rican people.
Costa Rica's reputation in tourism is built on its "treehugging" policies, with over 25% of the country in some kind of protection. So being green and understanding the value of democratic socialism are consistent with understanding why Costa Rica is what it is today.
Nowhere in my book do I mention volunteering to "dig ditches for poor people". I do try to draw the reader's attention to the network of 30 Costa Rican communities that own their own ecolodges. So rather than the Costa Ricans digging ditches and being gardeners and maids at foreign-owned ecolodges, they have the chance to build and own their own ecotourism businesses. These places are not only stunningly beautiful, but provide the experience of getting to know the people who live in the place you are visiting. Relaxation and adventure are easy to find at these and all destinations mentioned in my book. Owning their own lodges helps people stay on their land, creates jobs for their families, and helps them preserve their forests, rivers, and traditional culture.
It is erroneous for you to say "And the author has the gall (in this newest version) to eliminate EVERY hotel (green or not) in the ENTIRE province of Guanacaste because the infrastructure doesn't satisfy her eco requirements."
My book has a 44-page chapter on Guanacaste Province, including the southern beaches. I do not include the beaches of northern Guanacaste because there is widespread agreement that the amount of tourism there has outstripped the capacity of the local infrastructure. Local communities have sued Guanacaste hotels because there is not enought water left for residents. Many beaches that formerly received the government's ecological Blue Flag rating have lost it because of high levels of contamination in the water. While this edition was being researched the government had to shut down two hotels in Guanacaste for dumping raw sewage in the sea! If anyone is pretending, it is those who trust that when they take a long luxurious shower or flush a toilet on their relaxing beach vacation, that there exists a water and sewer system that is handling it all in a responsible way. Most successful hotels in Costa Rica have their own septic systems, but there are very few sewage treatment plants. Tourism has developed rapidly, and the infrastructure has not caught up.
My main point is that tourism has a direct effect on the communities you visit. Communities can choose to take responsibility for their relationship with tourism. They can choose to maintain it at a sustainable level, but if they let it get beyond that, they have to pay for appropriate infrastructure.
After 28 years of writing and updating this book, I am saddened to see village after village lose its soul to the monster of mass tourism. I support community tourism because I hope that it can give pristine villages a fighting chance to determine what they want from tourism rather than being overwhelmed by it. The beaches of northern Guanacaste long ago lost any pretense of being Costa Rican. My book is for people who would like to experience Costa Rica while they are there. If they would prefer to relax in an atmosphere that is more like Florida or California, then there are plenty of Costa Rica guidebooks and glossy brochures to meet their needs.
Learn more about my travel planning services at www.keytocostarica.com
Showing posts with label ecotourism Costa Rica. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ecotourism Costa Rica. Show all posts
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
Here is an example of how communities, conservation and ecotourism are working together in the high mountains of Costa Rica. If you are interested in hiking, trekking, volunteering, recycling, or just spending time in a beautiful mountain community at very affordable rates, read on.
Find out more about our customized ecotours and travel planning advice.
INNOVATIVE COMMUNITIES: COOPESAVEGRE, PRESERVING THE BEAUTY OF PROVIDENCIA
In 1998 the Government of Spain launched a far-sighted program to preserve the watershed of the Savegre River, deemed one of the purest rivers in Latin America. The extensive oak forests of Alto Savegre had long been familiar to the Spanish as the source of the oaken casks used to age their famous wines. Most of the campesinos who lived in the high forests made their living from turning ancient oaks into charcoal, until the Costa Rican govenment stopped the practice in the 1970s.
Around the turn of the century, a Spanish delegation visited 36 communities from the river´s headwaters in Providencia down to where the Savegre meets the sea south of Manuel Antonio National Park. They built simple suspended bridges to help people get around in this steep, mountainous area, and trained many campesinos to be environmental advocates.
Today these efforts are bearing fruit as many of their trainees manifest their commitment to this beautiful river in a number of interesting projects throughout the watershed. Two of them are described here. This is one of the few regions in Costa Rica that is actively working on a zoning plan. Restaurante Las Cascadas del Savegre (2226-6376, coope_savegre@yahoo.com) serves well-prepared fresh trout as part of a elegant four-course meal. The welcoming exterior decorated with hanging flower baskets and the clean design of the interior are unexpected in this isolated mountain village. Owner Juan Francisco Aguero takes off his chef´s hat and leads you on a short, fascinating tour of Providencia, to see the ecologically-run coffee processing plant, the waterfalls in the crystalline river, and La Piedra, the cave where the first campesino settlers stayed after discovering this glorious area. The tour, lodging and three great meals cost around $50-$60/person.
Albergüe Las Cascadas, about a kilometer down the road are simple and clean rooms ($20/person, including breakfast, contact info above). They rent a new 2-bedroom house for $60-$70.
Armonía Ambiental ((shared baths, heated water, $40/person including meals and tour, 2226-6376, coope_savegre@yahoo.com) has fantastic views of 14 mountains and the rich oak forests of Parque Nacional Los Quetzales. For breakfast, Doña Noire serves artistic arrangements of the great variety of tropical fruits grown on her farm. When we were there, calalillies were in bloom and lent a touch of elegance to the humble charm of her dining area. Accommodations are in her home or in a new cabin up the hill with great views.
Creative recycling: In this pristine mountain village, as in most gorgeous rural areas, there is no garbage disposal facility. Doña Noire addresses this problem with creativity and enthusiasm. She and her family stuff plastic soda bottles with more plastic, and use them as building materials. She makes planters out of old bleach bottles and washing machine innards. She builds garden terraces out of tin cans, Even though villagers bring her all their discards, she can´t find enough garbage to satisfy her creative ideas. Her enthusiasm is contagious. Volunteers are welcome at Armonia Ambiental, as are vegetarians. The family can take you on hikes or horseback rides in the forest above their farm. Armonía Ambiental is located a couple of bumpy kilometers beyond Restaurante Las Cascadas.
SAVEGRE TREK: Coopesavegre (2226-6376, info@coopesavegre.com) can take you on a 6-day, 5-night trek starting on the páramo at 11,350 feet above sea level and hiking down to San Gerardo (7150 feet). The next day you hike to Providencia (5688 feet). The third day has an 8-hour hike up to 6250 feet, descending to La Chaqueta at 2300 feet, The fourth night is spent at El Brujo Tent Camp at 800 feet. On the fifth night you arrive at El Silencio before marching into the sea at Playa El Rey, part of Manuel Antonio National Park on day six. The trip can also be done by horseback. The whole 6-day trek costs about $400/person including naturalist guide, lodging and meals, and offers many opportunities for birding, fantastic vistas, refreshing dips in the river, and visiting communities along the way. You have to be in good shape to do this rigorous by rewarding trek.
To enjoy these adventures on your own, it is best if you speak Spanish. Or see www.keytocostarica.com. We can provide you with excellent bilingual naturalist guides and drivers.
Find out more about our customized ecotours and travel planning advice.
INNOVATIVE COMMUNITIES: COOPESAVEGRE, PRESERVING THE BEAUTY OF PROVIDENCIA
In 1998 the Government of Spain launched a far-sighted program to preserve the watershed of the Savegre River, deemed one of the purest rivers in Latin America. The extensive oak forests of Alto Savegre had long been familiar to the Spanish as the source of the oaken casks used to age their famous wines. Most of the campesinos who lived in the high forests made their living from turning ancient oaks into charcoal, until the Costa Rican govenment stopped the practice in the 1970s.
Around the turn of the century, a Spanish delegation visited 36 communities from the river´s headwaters in Providencia down to where the Savegre meets the sea south of Manuel Antonio National Park. They built simple suspended bridges to help people get around in this steep, mountainous area, and trained many campesinos to be environmental advocates.
Today these efforts are bearing fruit as many of their trainees manifest their commitment to this beautiful river in a number of interesting projects throughout the watershed. Two of them are described here. This is one of the few regions in Costa Rica that is actively working on a zoning plan. Restaurante Las Cascadas del Savegre (2226-6376, coope_savegre@yahoo.com) serves well-prepared fresh trout as part of a elegant four-course meal. The welcoming exterior decorated with hanging flower baskets and the clean design of the interior are unexpected in this isolated mountain village. Owner Juan Francisco Aguero takes off his chef´s hat and leads you on a short, fascinating tour of Providencia, to see the ecologically-run coffee processing plant, the waterfalls in the crystalline river, and La Piedra, the cave where the first campesino settlers stayed after discovering this glorious area. The tour, lodging and three great meals cost around $50-$60/person.
Albergüe Las Cascadas, about a kilometer down the road are simple and clean rooms ($20/person, including breakfast, contact info above). They rent a new 2-bedroom house for $60-$70.
Armonía Ambiental ((shared baths, heated water, $40/person including meals and tour, 2226-6376, coope_savegre@yahoo.com) has fantastic views of 14 mountains and the rich oak forests of Parque Nacional Los Quetzales. For breakfast, Doña Noire serves artistic arrangements of the great variety of tropical fruits grown on her farm. When we were there, calalillies were in bloom and lent a touch of elegance to the humble charm of her dining area. Accommodations are in her home or in a new cabin up the hill with great views.
Creative recycling: In this pristine mountain village, as in most gorgeous rural areas, there is no garbage disposal facility. Doña Noire addresses this problem with creativity and enthusiasm. She and her family stuff plastic soda bottles with more plastic, and use them as building materials. She makes planters out of old bleach bottles and washing machine innards. She builds garden terraces out of tin cans, Even though villagers bring her all their discards, she can´t find enough garbage to satisfy her creative ideas. Her enthusiasm is contagious. Volunteers are welcome at Armonia Ambiental, as are vegetarians. The family can take you on hikes or horseback rides in the forest above their farm. Armonía Ambiental is located a couple of bumpy kilometers beyond Restaurante Las Cascadas.
SAVEGRE TREK: Coopesavegre (2226-6376, info@coopesavegre.com) can take you on a 6-day, 5-night trek starting on the páramo at 11,350 feet above sea level and hiking down to San Gerardo (7150 feet). The next day you hike to Providencia (5688 feet). The third day has an 8-hour hike up to 6250 feet, descending to La Chaqueta at 2300 feet, The fourth night is spent at El Brujo Tent Camp at 800 feet. On the fifth night you arrive at El Silencio before marching into the sea at Playa El Rey, part of Manuel Antonio National Park on day six. The trip can also be done by horseback. The whole 6-day trek costs about $400/person including naturalist guide, lodging and meals, and offers many opportunities for birding, fantastic vistas, refreshing dips in the river, and visiting communities along the way. You have to be in good shape to do this rigorous by rewarding trek.
To enjoy these adventures on your own, it is best if you speak Spanish. Or see www.keytocostarica.com. We can provide you with excellent bilingual naturalist guides and drivers.
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