Here is an example of how communities, conservation and ecotourism are working together in the high mountains of Costa Rica. If you are interested in hiking, trekking, volunteering, recycling, or just spending time in a beautiful mountain community at very affordable rates, read on.
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INNOVATIVE COMMUNITIES: COOPESAVEGRE, PRESERVING THE BEAUTY OF PROVIDENCIA
In 1998 the Government of Spain launched a far-sighted program to preserve the watershed of the Savegre River, deemed one of the purest rivers in Latin America. The extensive oak forests of Alto Savegre had long been familiar to the Spanish as the source of the oaken casks used to age their famous wines. Most of the campesinos who lived in the high forests made their living from turning ancient oaks into charcoal, until the Costa Rican govenment stopped the practice in the 1970s.
Around the turn of the century, a Spanish delegation visited 36 communities from the river´s headwaters in Providencia down to where the Savegre meets the sea south of Manuel Antonio National Park. They built simple suspended bridges to help people get around in this steep, mountainous area, and trained many campesinos to be environmental advocates.
Today these efforts are bearing fruit as many of their trainees manifest their commitment to this beautiful river in a number of interesting projects throughout the watershed. Two of them are described here. This is one of the few regions in Costa Rica that is actively working on a zoning plan. Restaurante Las Cascadas del Savegre (2226-6376, coope_savegre@yahoo.com) serves well-prepared fresh trout as part of a elegant four-course meal. The welcoming exterior decorated with hanging flower baskets and the clean design of the interior are unexpected in this isolated mountain village. Owner Juan Francisco Aguero takes off his chef´s hat and leads you on a short, fascinating tour of Providencia, to see the ecologically-run coffee processing plant, the waterfalls in the crystalline river, and La Piedra, the cave where the first campesino settlers stayed after discovering this glorious area. The tour, lodging and three great meals cost around $50-$60/person.
Albergüe Las Cascadas, about a kilometer down the road are simple and clean rooms ($20/person, including breakfast, contact info above). They rent a new 2-bedroom house for $60-$70.
Armonía Ambiental ((shared baths, heated water, $40/person including meals and tour, 2226-6376, coope_savegre@yahoo.com) has fantastic views of 14 mountains and the rich oak forests of Parque Nacional Los Quetzales. For breakfast, Doña Noire serves artistic arrangements of the great variety of tropical fruits grown on her farm. When we were there, calalillies were in bloom and lent a touch of elegance to the humble charm of her dining area. Accommodations are in her home or in a new cabin up the hill with great views.
Creative recycling: In this pristine mountain village, as in most gorgeous rural areas, there is no garbage disposal facility. Doña Noire addresses this problem with creativity and enthusiasm. She and her family stuff plastic soda bottles with more plastic, and use them as building materials. She makes planters out of old bleach bottles and washing machine innards. She builds garden terraces out of tin cans, Even though villagers bring her all their discards, she can´t find enough garbage to satisfy her creative ideas. Her enthusiasm is contagious. Volunteers are welcome at Armonia Ambiental, as are vegetarians. The family can take you on hikes or horseback rides in the forest above their farm. Armonía Ambiental is located a couple of bumpy kilometers beyond Restaurante Las Cascadas.
SAVEGRE TREK: Coopesavegre (2226-6376, info@coopesavegre.com) can take you on a 6-day, 5-night trek starting on the páramo at 11,350 feet above sea level and hiking down to San Gerardo (7150 feet). The next day you hike to Providencia (5688 feet). The third day has an 8-hour hike up to 6250 feet, descending to La Chaqueta at 2300 feet, The fourth night is spent at El Brujo Tent Camp at 800 feet. On the fifth night you arrive at El Silencio before marching into the sea at Playa El Rey, part of Manuel Antonio National Park on day six. The trip can also be done by horseback. The whole 6-day trek costs about $400/person including naturalist guide, lodging and meals, and offers many opportunities for birding, fantastic vistas, refreshing dips in the river, and visiting communities along the way. You have to be in good shape to do this rigorous by rewarding trek.
To enjoy these adventures on your own, it is best if you speak Spanish. Or see www.keytocostarica.com. We can provide you with excellent bilingual naturalist guides and drivers.